Lingerie  - a product with
 Technology, elegance and comfort

INTRODUCTION

The word Lingerie is derived from French origin, pronunciation as LAN-ZHUH-RI, meaning women’s under wear and/or nightclothes.  It is an important women’s Intimate Apparel, worn closely to the skin and underneath the outer clothes or used as sleepwear.   Lingerie can be said as the second skin for women, enhancing confidence and beauty. It may be Camisoles, Sleep Wears, Swim Wear, Beach Wear, Brassier, Panties and others.  Some time, in Apparel it is described as foundation garments. This Inner Wear not only radiates the inner glow, but also brings the complete beauty and look of the out fit of a woman, whether she wears a sari or dresses.
 
TREND 

Old fashion with thick strap and uncomfortable lingerie has gone.  Now, women prefer for soft, silky, stylish, lacy, sensual and sleek lingerie with or without thin and transparent strap.  Mind-boggling latest trend include Demi-Cups, T-Shirts bras and G-String & V-back Panties or Nightwear with trendy styles.  Young stars prefer a matching set with vibrant colours, which they can wear along with their outfits. Innerwear is no more restricted to just black and white, but is available in different colours, specifically red, purple and pink.  The retailers and stores like Crossroads, Shoppers’ Ship, KBN, Erenin and others are all stocking the best of international brands.  Some of the prominent brands in Indian Lingerie Industry are Loveable, Sonari, Yoke, Juliet, Daisy, Dee and others.  In the recent time, leading UK retailer – Marks & Spencer – has also introduced a vast range of lingerie in the Indian market.

Cotton is still preferred fabric for lingerie for its absolutely comfortable feelings and also suits the tropical climate.  Now buyers want class with comfort. So, besides the different cuts and design available in cotton, new developed fabric like Polyamide, Micro, Viscose etc. have entered in this industry in a big way, e.g. for European market, brassier with polyamide and elastane in the ratio of 80:20, 85:15 or even 90:10 has got a good demand.  Cotton and Polyamide is another combination.

Viscose is another important fibre, which offers advantage even over cotton in terms of moisture absorbency, comfort, lustre, feel and colour.  In a new development, thermo-chrome fabrics, which change colour when exposed to heat and light, using chemical products added to the dye, are coming in to the market, in addition to fabrics for beachwear that print on contact with water.  Lycra and Spandex have an essential part of inner garment to add in stretch ability and comfort.  Women have now learned to use these new fabrics and to appreciate their qualities. A Survey conducted by one of the International Lingerie Show reveals that in lingerie, the most important thing for a woman is the fabric of natural fibre like cotton, which is purest and softest of all .  Here again, India has already achieved a strong base of manufacturing cotton and blended fabric.  Study further states that 84% of women give priority to comfort, 58% to softness, 25% elasticity, 21% refinement, 20% freshness, 54% easy care, 41% strength and these new requirements will continue to increase.  Comfort is clearly the most important consideration for women when they are wearing intimate apparel.

UK is the largest market of over 2.6 billion Euros, followed by France with 2.5 billion Francs and Germany with 2.4 billion Mark.  On the other hand, India is importing various Lingerie items mainly from other Asian Countries.  Malaysia is the leading supplier to India for Brassieres, Panties and Swimwear, followed by Italy, Hong Kong, UK, China and Indonesia.  Thailand is the major supplier of Slips and Petticoats in knitted varieties, whereas Nepal is the major supplier for Wind Cheaters, both for Men and Women.

 Today, Lingerie has become one of the major online purchases in India also, mainly because products linked to privacy, easily identifiable marketed products, lightweight products, allowing for inexpensive postage and influence of men in buying decisions.  But, there is still a general lack of awareness about lingerie among Indian women.  Many of them do not know that everyone undergoes constant physical changes and therefore need to ask for different size and shape of lingerie whenever they go for a new one.  Inappropriate size and fabric quality sometime may go against health and hygiene of the body too.

OPPORTUNITIES
India is expected to gain significantly in quota free regime w.e.f. 1st January 2005 in world textile trade.   Lingerie is one of such women’s apparel, imparted with need-based technology and design and is expected to get good place from the country in free trade regime. This is possible because, Indian textile and garment industry has several strength in terms of a diverse raw material base, design skill, cheap labour, minimum dependency on import and a vast domestic market targeting one of the largest middle class family populations. 

Textile cities like Ahmedabad and Surat now can supply almost all range of fabric, cotton, blended and of filament.  Besides, the core strength on filament textile, Surat has become the centre of embroidery; Zari work and warp knitted fancy laces.  Even then, to fulfil the domestic demand, India has become now one of the major importers of Lingerie, mainly from Asian Countries like Malaysia, Thailand and Nepal. For manufacturing high valued Lingerie, India still depends on import of cushion strap, elastic bands, fancy laces, trimmings and accessories to give a sensuous look and feel.  For import of all these quality raw material and technology like “sure-bra O” a Lingerie lamination system (laminating foam to fabric for bra cups), investors can take advantage of Foreign Trade Policy 2004-05, simplifying various schemes like EPCG, DEPB, Service Tax exemption etc. to make the product more competitive internationally.  An outline for initial investment for this kind of project may be worked out as under:

Other incentive like TUF scheme of Union Ministry of Textile, Interest subsidy and Market Development scheme of Govt.of Gujarat may be considered for this project.

OUTLOOK
Future of Lingerie industry in India is expected to grow in a rapid manner, specially, in the post quota regime.  Many of the international retailers are already on job to source from India or in the process of collaborating with Indian Manufacturers along with their specific input like, Design and technology.  e.g. a super-tech bra, made from a fabric that contains silver-coated fibres or fibre developed with the help of nano-technology can help to control moisture and heat from the body. Similarly, seamless wear, created out of a single, tubular piece of fabric on a circular knitting machine is on active demand.  New generation fibre and fabric may be of antibacterial, perfumed and breathable.  A seamless bra, for instance, is great under tight fitting fabric, while cut-and-sew bra can provide a dressier look.   Similarly Panties, crafted with skilled perfection in wide range of colours must provide natural and technical feel together.  Fibres and fabric are to be treated to provide better breath ability, stretch ability and comfort.  Newer fusing technology replaces the need for irritating stitches and seamless.  Instead, fabric is fused seamlessly together using glue, heat and pressure to create a fabulously smooth and flexible joint.  Lingerie fabric should have better stretch and wash ability than before.  There is a need to think for embroidery, delicate lace, muted colours and design.  But, understanding on using variety of yarns, elastic band, fabric under wire that dig in, and available technology is an utmost necessary to fulfil the need.

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