D E N I M
An eternally young fabric for clothing (page 1)

Indian Textile industry has entered the year of 2005, the long discussed quota free regime. Many units have started becoming more and more competitive and are in the process of expansion either in fabric, made-up or in fashionable garment. A recent study by FICCI, titled “Ending of MFA and the Indian Textile Industry” which is based on responses received from 60 medium and large textile planners across the country, reveals that 83% of them are planning for new investment in coming 12 months. With this growing trend many are predominantly looking at Denim as major raw material for the growth of fashionable Garment worldwide. Most of the existing player has started their expansion programme with manufacturing Denim once again with a fresh look specially when country is strong in producing right kind of cotton required for this industry.   A need is, therefore, felt to rethink and relocate this eternally young fabric for clothing in this changing environment.

The word ‘Denim’ is derived from the French Phrase “The serge de Nimes”, a serge fabric (A durable twilled worsted fabric) from the town of Nimes in France.  It is also said that the word ‘Denim’ came from a worsted fabric known as “Nim” in France during 17th century.  Interestingly, another fabric known as “Jean” also existed at that time.  This fabric was basically a “fustain”, a dark twill cotton cloth.  Possibly, only major difference of these two fabrics is: Denim was made of one coloured thread and one white thread whereas Jean was woven with two threads of different colour.  Finally, Denim was used as work cotton clothes when both durability and comfort were needed.  It is one of the oldest fabrics, yet it remains eternally young.
The Denim craze began as far back as in 1949, during the American Gold Rush.  In India, Arvind Mills in Ahmedabad first manufactured Denim some time in the year 1986.  With modernisation acquiring a quicker pace in India, Denim has become one of the most popular wear among young girls and boys. Gujarat is one of the leading textile states in the country and Ahmedabad is known as the Denim City.  Some of the leading manufacturers of denim fabrics in Ahmedabad are Arvind, Soma, Ashima, Modern, Gujarat Ambuja, Blue Blend, Arvee Textiles and others. Many of them are planning for further expansion as of now. Nandan Exim Pvt Ltd and Chiripal Processors are setting up Denim unit as a new entrant at Ahmedabad.   Other major players in the field are KG Denim, Raymonds, Bhaskar Textiles, Shri Lakshmi Cotsyn(proposed) etc.

Proposed Expansion In Million Meters

Traditionally, Denim is defined as a 3/1 warp faced twill fabric made from cotton open-end yarn dyed warp and un-dyed weft although some of the denim are also being produced out of ring spun and soft yarn. It was dyed with indigo blue dye originally obtained from natural sources, but now manufactured chemically in place of commonly used indigo, sulphur colour is also used. While most denim remains blue, a growing market for other colours has also developed.  So, it could go even to pink, green, yellow, white, light blue etc.  Most denim is still 100 percent cotton, although a relatively small volume of polyester/cotton denim is produced and traded worldwide.  Some new developments are tensel denim, stretch denim, chinos, polyester blends, tinted denim, raven denim, crosshatch denim and many others. Today, it has become affordable, comfortable, and durable and offers variety of style and colour. The utility of denims has increased with different weights – 16,14,13,12,6 and 4 ozs/sq. yard with different after treatments or washes like Stone wash, bleach wash, hand wash, acid wash, over dyed, printed denims and even embossed denims. 

TREND

The utility of Denim has increased with different weights, type, colours and different after treatment or washes both for apparel and non-apparel use.  In the world market, classic Denim Jeans retain an 10% share of the women’s outwear market and a 25% share of the men’s wear market.  The greatest demand comes from 15 to 19 age groups.  It is expected that the growth rate for denims would be directly proportional to the growth rate of readymade garments industry in India and abroad.
In India, the denim fabrics are most used by the youths in the age group of 18 to 25 mostly in metros and "B" class cities. However there is a phenomenal scope for consumption by tapping rural areas and already it has started with a significant growth rate. This trend will continue further and essentially it has increased the domestic demand to a great extent. 

Apart from the youth, denim fabrics are used in children wear also. The raggedness of denim fabrics has already appealed the local ready – made garment manufacturers to use denim fabrics for children wear. Further scope of increased usage of denims in children garments is also anticipated.   Though denims used in the ladies jeans presently limited to only ladies belonging to upper strata in Metros, the ladies garment sector is the upcoming target among Indian denim manufacturers.

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