Cotton – the textile fibre in focus
( Under specific reference to Gujarat) (Page 2)
Organic Farming and Organic Cotton
On the other side of Cotton cultivation, Cotton cultivated on 5% cultivable land consumes 54% of total pesticides used in Indian agriculture, and in some pockets, the rates are higher than this, leaving immense ecological and human hazards as reported by World Health Organisation. Use of chemicals at such scale causes a lot of hazards to man, i.e., environmental pollution, soil health, and agro-ecology and poor profitability in cotton farming. This has basically prompted the demand of organically cultivated, eco-friendly or ‘green’ cotton. Therefore, organic farming has been aimed at conservation and optimised utilisation of all natural resources for a reasonable profitability under the guiding factors of sustainability of the farm. Five to seven decades ago, most of the cotton cultivated in the country was ‘eco-friendly’ with little or no use of toxic chemicals in its production. Even today, there are many pockets in India, where it is produced without the use of agrochemicals, e.g., areas growing Wagad cotton in Gujarat, Y-1 desi cotton of Khandesh region of Maharashtra, Maljari in Madhya Pradesh, part of areas growing Jayadhar and Suyodhar in Karnataka, Nandicum in Andhra Pradesh and parts of cotton areas in north eastern hill region. Cultivation of cotton with organic methods has helped farmers to improve sustainable productivity. Another approach on eco-friendly cultivation is to produce coloured cotton. Economically, they are low in yield or colour may not be uniform. But, plant breeders have already overcome in some of the varieties. The message on non-chemical and sustainable agriculture has pervaded to many parts of India and is hopefully making inroads into some of the southern cotton growing Indian states and Gujarat.
India presently being the second largest producer of organic cotton is expected to emerge as the world's number one producer of organic cotton in the next cropping season whose data will be available by June 2007. As per the latest organic cotton fibre report (for spring 2006) from Organic Exchange, the California based non-profit organisation, India has accounted for production of 9,835 tonnes of organic cotton or 31.71 per cent in the world clean cotton production compared with Turkey's 10,160 tonnes or 32.76 per cent of world production during 2005-06 season.
India's organic cotton production in 2004-05 season was 6,320 tonnes (25 per cent), well below the Turkey's output of 10,460 tonnes (41.19 per cent). China and the US were way behind these two for the third and fourth largest supplier of organic cotton with their output at 1,868 tonnes and 1,336 tonnes respectively in 2005-06. Netherlands-based Skall International is the certifying body for natural fibre processing standards as well as its field (organic cotton farming) development project in the country and in Gujarat. There are about 30,000 organic cotton growers in the country, the majority of them in Maharashtra and Gujarat.
Emerging Opportunities
The all round favourable position of Cotton Grown in Gujarat has impelled many of the existing textile players, assessing, feasibility of establishing spinning unit in the places like Surendranagar, Rajkot or other parts of Cotton growing area in Saurashtra.
This situation was reverse even a few years back. Higher Cost of Power in the State was also one of the hindernees to grow independent spinning. Now, for a medium and large size, atleast for 25,000 spindles size one can find this project quite competitive with Captive Power generation.
Cost of Cotton plays a major role for a spinning activity, constituting over 60 to 70% cost of Spun yarn. Where in again Power Cost is one of the very sensitive factors influencing on overall profitability of a spinning unit. Even 1 paisa reduction in power cost per unit, would result a savings of Rs one lakh per annum for a Spinning Mill of 25,000 spindles manufacturing 30-34 s yarn count. Even for Captive Power Generation, Cost of Power generation varies with Type of fuel, investment and Technology, e.g. Cost Per unit from High Speed Diesel is around Rs 5.30 as against Rs 2.40 from Heavy Fuel oil. But Capital Cost involved for setting up Power Plant from Heavy Fuel oil is very high, say Rs 7 crore and above investment for 2 MW Power Plant. However, in Gujarat, due to increased availability of Natural Gas, environment friendly Gas based Power Plant for Captive Consumption may be an suggested with a solution, generating Power cost of Rs 2.50 to Rs 3.00 per unit.
Conclusion
Bumper cotton crop production and phasing out quota regime have emerged new opportunities in all segments of textile in the State of Gujarat.
Cotton will be one of the major export items from Gujarat for the next few years. Productivity of Cotton (yield) in Gujarat is highest (655 kg. / ha.) in the country. Even then, we are far behind of China and Brazil (1150kg/ha) or Australia (1800 Kg/ha). So there is a room to grow.
Improved method and practices needs to be adopted in the process of picking, storage and transportation to ensure a near – zero contamination in Cotton produced. In order to achieve, consistence of quality with minimal quality variation, the concept of “One variety – One village” must be adopted for cultivation.
Diversion will be seen in cultivating high valued “Organic Cotton”. Demand for organic cotton currently is consumer-driven. Strong factor that has pushed global brands and retailers into organic cotton is due to the demand for high valued eco friendly garment marketing. Even large department stores and retail chains in the US and Europe are keen to promote organic products, including apparel made from organic cotton. British retailer, Marks & Spencer is expected to announce an autumn collection made from organic cotton. And the likes of Timberland and Nike are also making a beeline to India to source apparel made from organic cotton.
Many of them will concentrate more on developing Extra Long staple cotton cultivation, rather than producing existing Medium and Short Staple Cotton. Despite record level cotton production, Country still imported over half a million bales of Extra Long Staple Cotton from Egypt, Sudan and USA.
Now, no longer cultivators need to wait for Trader or Middle Man, rather online trading of cotton is happening even from interior villages in Gujarat.
Existing cultivator, Cotton Traders and Ginners in Gujarat are expected to set up new spinning project as a part of forward integration of their present activities, along with setting up Captive Power plant in the next few years. Many Corporate are also expected to come forward for setting up new and modern Ginning units in Gujarat in near future.
Cotton is going to be a household word in India and in the developed nation; whether its in the living room, bedroom, bathroom or in the kitchen. Its purity, softness and absorbency have made it the ideal and great for all season and for the use of all kind of personal hygiene product. Even after having innovations and technological development in Man made Fibre, uniqueness of Cotton and Cotton Textile could not be replaced.
Ongoing development of Modern Weaving, Knitting and Made-up projects in Gujarat will also give further boost for new Spinning Projects. Finally, Gujarat is going to see a strong and complete value chain of Textile from cotton to yarn, fabric, Made-ups and Garments. State like Gujarat will continue to be all time competitive in Cotton and Cotton Textile world.
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